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Ushuaia guide (continued)

What to see?

National Park Tierra Del Fuego (Day trip)

Orchids flowering in the National Park
Orchids flowering in the National Park.
The National Park lies 10 km west of Ushuaia. From the city you can take a minibus to the park. There are different companies but the prices and services are all the same. They leave from Maipú Street, where there is a parking lot (between the Artisanal Fair and the gas station). Departures, daily, are usually from 09:30 or 10:00. You can go to different places in the park to start your walk, the further you go the more expensive your ticket, which is about 40 pesos/person. You also pay an entrance fee to the park, which is about 50 pesos/person.

It is also possible to camp in the National Park. There are two camp sites without facilities, but most people stay at the third and biggest site, Lago Roca. This is also the site of a 'confitería', a small restaurant where you can order simple meals, sandwiches, a café latte with a delicious pie. It is a nice place but during the day small vans bring visitors to the park or pick them up from there and it is far from quiet. Late afternoon it gets more quiet and the birds return to the area. Argentines like to camp next to their car with the car radio playing loud. During the weekend it is likely to be busier that during the week. Camping costs only 12 pesos/person and if you wish you can hire some camping gear or spend the night in the dormitory.

Museo Yámana (1 hour)

This is a nice little museum located in the centre (Rivadavia 56) which tells the history of the people from Tierra del Fuego. It explains how glacial activity influenced the distribution of the native people, and how it created the Beagle Channel as we know it today. It is only small, but take your time to look around, and do not forget to peep into the garden with indian huts. The museum is open every day from 10:00-20:00.

Estancia Harberton & Museo Acatashún (Whales & Dolphins) (Day trip)

Old machinery in one of the sheds of the estancia
Old machinery in one of the sheds of the estancia.
The minibusses that take people to the National Park can also take you in the other direction, to Estancia Harberton, 85 km east of Ushuaia. Alternatively, you can take a taxi. This farm range was the first in Argentina and is still operated today by the descendants of the original founder (Thomas Bridges, who became famous for writing a Yámana dictionary before, tragically, these natives were wiped out forever. As it happened, Antarctic explorer Frederic Cook wanted to publish it under his own name!). Today there is a tearoom with various homemade cakes (try them all!).

Bones of sea mammals on display at the Museo Acatashún
Bones of sea mammals on display at the Museo Acatashún.
But the best thing Harberton has to offer is the Museo Acatashún, basically a huge collection of bones of mainly whales and dolphins, but also sea lions, fur seals and true seals as well as seabirds. This is the work of Mrs Natalie Goodall (her book on Tierra del Fuego is for sale there but also in all Ushuaian bookshops) who still identifies parts of bones found in the wide area and adds them to the collection. The way the skeletons are presented makes you realize how these ceteceans are sized. Next to the main museum is the bone house (casa de huesos) where fresh carcasses are cleaned. Enter only if you have a strong stomach.

Isla Martillo (Magellanic Penguin) (Day trip)

Piratours (bookings and tickets are available from their kiosk near the harbour) is currently the only company that lets you walk on Isla Martillo, where Magellanic and a couple of Gentoo Penguins breed, as well as Rock Shags and Chilean Skuas. In the morning their minibus will take you to Estancia Harberton, where you have some time to spend. If you skip the lunch in the restaurant there you have more time for, for example, the whale museum (and you pay less). A zodiac will you bring to Isla Martillo where you have some time to watch the birdlife.

Excursion on the Beagle Channel (Day or half day trip)

Various companies offer trips on the Beagle Channel to watch the shags on the Isla de los Pajaros (bird island) and the sea lions on Isla de los Lobos (seal island). Bookings and tickets are available from the kiosks near the harbour. I can recommend the catamarans from Tolkeyén. If you take the one called 'Moreno' say hello to guide Carolina and captain Eduardo. There are short tours and long tours; the latter also get quite close to Isla Martillo and offer a good view on the Magellanic Penguins (though they are not allowed to actually land you on the beach there).

Another nice excursion is the one offered by the small boat 'Tres Marias'. I have not done this excursion myself, but I heard good feedback from others. You'll get a good view on breeding Rock Shags and Sea Lions.

Museo Territorial /Museo del Fin del Mundo (2 hours)

It will take you one hour (two hour if you read all the signs) to visit the Museo del Fin del Mundo, located at Av. Maipú 173 (on the corner of Rivadavia). There are different halls with different expositions: one on the history of the indians, another one with stuffed birds, one with a historic drugs store, and a couple more. With the same ticket you can also visit the 'Antigua Casa de Gobierno' on the same street.

Birdwatching

Ushuaia and its surroundings are great for birdwatching. Raptors, waders, passerines and seabirds can all be added to your species list. Southern Giant Petrels often fly past the quay where statues of Antarctic heroes look toward the Beagle Channel. One of the trips onto the channel is likely to bring you close encounters with Black-browed Albatrosses and large flocks of South-American Terns. Here are a few sites worthwhile checking out.

Stroll around Bahia Encerrada (1 or more hours)

Southern Lapwings feed on the shoreline of Bahia Encerrada
Southern Lapwings feed on the shoreline of Bahia Encerrada.
Just southwest of the shopping centre lies Bahia Encerrada, the Enclosed Bay. Walk across the dike towards the pier where the small yachts moor and watch the South American Terns scan the beach for food. There are shags, different species of gulls and ducks and geese. Look out for the lapwings, the American Kestrel and the Pipit.

Andorra valley

I have not been there myself yet, but I have heard it is a great place for the Kingfisher. Andorra Valley is not an official site marked with signs. It lies at the border of the city at the northeast side. Buy yourself a hike map in one of the bookshops and ask the locals how to reach the area.

Aquarium (Closed down) and coast line

Behind the Aquarium a whale skull decomposes in the garden
Behind the Aquarium a whale skull decomposes in the garden.
Ran by a very sympathetic old granny from Italian origin, the aquarium has closed down. It used to be my favourite museum, with live fish and invertebrates living in the Beagle Channel, and with a large shell collection. The coastline behind the museum, a pebble beach, is still attractive for birdwatchers, but you may need to ask permission to access the privately owned land. The yellow building of the former aquarium is located about 3km outside Ushuaia and neighbours to the slaughter house. Two steps further still and you'll cross a small bridge. To your right hand you will find a parking area with many cargo containers. At the end of this dead-end street you will usually have a good view on Giant Petrels, Chilean Skuas, various gulls, Turkey Vultures and other scavengers that feed on the left-overs from the abattoir.

What not to see / not to do?

Finally, there are a few things that I do not recommend. However, both options are big tourist attractions:

Museo Marítimo/Presidio de Ushuaia

This is one of the wings of the former prison that has not been transformed into museum.
This is one of the wings of the former prison that has not been transformed into museum.
At the end of the world, over a century ago, Ushuaia used to be a place where prisoners were kept away from the rest of the country. The old prison is now a place where a couple of museums and expositions are bundled: the prison museum (presidio), the maritime and maritime art museum, an art gallery, a section on Antarctica... it is a bit of this and that, but nothing really worthwhile. Every single jail presents a topic. There are many reproductions and remakes, but it is too much of nothing in my opinion. Still, this is the first place where tourists will go.

Train 'El Fin Del Mundo'

The 'End Of The World Train' is a Disney World-like tourist attraction right next to the National Park that is not really interesting, unless you are intrested in old steaming trains.

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